Black:

Supporting cast: 
Misfit Psycles NUMMERS Build Kit
Including these and other great hits; Profile Racing, Full Speed Ahead (Gravity), Misfit Psycles, WTB (Wilderness Trail Bikes), Cane Creek, Magura.

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Operators are standing by!

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STEP TWO - Frame and Fork Prep:

And the second step shall be the first step of ACTUAL labor. 
To complete this here step you will need a pipe-cutter and/or a hack saw with awesome blade of toughness. 
You will also need a headset press and crown race tool.  These are NOT so common tools, you may wish to beg/borrow/rent them as it makes more sense then bashing them together with a rock.

For the purposes of mounting, holding and generally working with a frame the seat collar and post are installed first.
Trouble is, the stock FUbu seatpost is cross-country long.

Shown stock with full insertion:
A simple pipe cutter job will allow for full insertion and maximum slamming. 
This is 113mm (4.25") being cut:

WARNING: Minimum insertion line is now hacked...should you choose to slice your post, do so at your own risk...

And voilas. 
Plenty of saddle clearance and absolutely no way to hang in the stand.
Up next, headset installation.  Cane Creek gets the nod with the TANK Jump:
And done:
Smooth as golden so far, now comes the race installation:
This is a very olde WOODMAN COMP race installer, it still works just fine thank you very much. 
NOTE:  In some cases, with some races, the fork may need to be prep'd (faced) to better accept your race.

The final stage in STEP TWO, Frame and Fork Prep is going to be the steerer.

Obviously it is too long as is and will pose a hazard to your face and eyes if it is left uncut.
To calculate the cut length, install the various components of the headset (we suggest completely assembling the headset to remove any slop and ENSURE an accurate measurement), mount the stem (and any spacers desired).
Mark the steerer at the top of the stem.  Either by scoring it or using a sharpie. 

You will be cutting 1/8" (+/- depending on manufacturers specifications) below this line.

Time to cut.
WARNING:  The steerer is steel. 

Typically we don't work with steel steerers.  In our haste we proceeded as per the norm. 
You do NOT want to make this mistake:
If you do, the wheel will implode immediately, littering your shop with shards of a once proud pipe cutter.
That and you will be left with a steerer the same length as it was prior.

Use a hack-saw (with appropriate steel blade). 
An angle grinder has been used by the Corporation in a pinch...with highly flammable (and partially inaccurate) results...you have been warned.

In conclusion.
Re-assemble the headset, stem and what not:

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STEP THREE - Spanish BB and Cranks:

Profile Racing is the Official supplier of Nummers cranks to the Misfit Nation.  With Profile cranks we use (exclusively) Profile bottom brackets (Spanish).  The spindle of choice is chromo, 5 3/4" and hollow...because it makes a difference.
Speaking of spindles, like ALL BMX type cranks worth their scratch there are 48 splines.

48 Splines of crusty resistance.

The difficulty in installing the cranks for the first time is NOT a reflection on Profile Racing.  Regardless of the cranks, regardless of the bearing system, BMX style mucho spline cranks are a bear to install for the first time - resistance is normal. 
That said, if you are a weakling, consider 5 pin or full-contact knitting.

Starting now you will need a mallet, small/medium phone book and a long 1" or adjustable wrench.

Lay the frame on it's side, be sure to protect the frame and fork with a good quality clean blanket or expensive silk shirts (you shouldn't be wearing them anyway).

Begin.

Rest one bearing flush with the shell.
Tap the bearing into the shell.  It is best to strike the bearing with the full face of the mallet to prevent damage or cocked installation. 
WARNING:  Do NOT use a glass or steel mallet for this stage, in fact neither have a place in your psycle sack or tool box.

Next, you MUST install the spacer. 
Nummers shells are 68mm, some kits will contain BOTH 68 and 73.  Profile does NOT mark these spacers.  You will need to take a flying guess as to which is the shorter of the two and use that one.
There are two ways (possibly more, these are our two) to install the second bearing (following the spacer insertion).

One frame #1 we were precise: 
Installed the spacer, laid up the second bearing and installed the spindle.
Gently tap the spindle flush with the bearing to be 'pressed'.
And finally, tap the second bearing flush.
Good work.

On frame #2 we wanted to push the envelope:
Let's see if we can expedite the process without blowing the roof off.
Ensure that the spacer is sitting upright and close to position.
Lay the second bearing in place.
Begin tapping the second bearing in place.  At this point no image is required, you've mastered the tap.
After the first tap you will come to realize that your efforts in uprighting the spacer are futile, the jarring blasts are sending it akimbo in the shell...that being said...frequently use a pinkie to ensure that the spacer isn't wedged between the bearings (it doesn't need to be centered).
WARNING: This is a repeat...make frequent checks to see that the spacer isn't wedged into either bearing and floats freely.

NOTE: Time savings with process #2 were minimal BUT the fact that you could lay the frame down (without the spindle extending out the underside) did reduce the PIA factor.

If you haven't already tap in and visually center the spindle. 
In the crank box is a small packet of Ti-Prep...it is gold in colour. 
Gold is precious.  Resist slathering this on your face or buttocks, you will use most of it during this stage.
WARNING:  It is entirely debatable as to the effect that this has on the installation process, we assure you, IT DOES ASSIST WITH ARM REMOVAL.  You MUST install this to the spindle BEFORE installing the cranks.

Install the bearing caps and spacers as required (prior to Ti-Prep). 

The LARGE cone goes on the NON-drive side and the SMALL cone goes on the DRIVE side. 
NOTE:  Spacers can vary depending on chainring size and personal preference.  For our installations BOTH Nummers used ONE 3mm (LARGE) spacer (see below).

Now cut the Ti-Prep pouch.
Apply it liberally to the spindle ends.  If in doubt, apply more (see second image, if your frame is slathered in gold goo when complete, you did good). 
NOTE:  Be sure to save enough for the crank bolts when the time comes.

Time to assemble the arms.

Select your chainring, remove the allen bolt from the arm and lay it up.
At this time the allen bolt should only be 'hand' tight, floating.
With the chainring there is a 'top hat' this needs to be tapped into the chainring at this time.
NOTE:  Tightening the cranks in place MAY press the top hat in place, however, the job of cranksertion is already tough enough - do this NOW and reduce the leverage slightly later.

Lay the drive crank on the drive side spindle.
Place your telephone book under the opposite end of the spindle (this will protect the floor below).
Gently tap the arm onto the spindle.
NOTE:  If you are using a 'soft' mallet you may not NEED to protect the crank.  Harder faced mallets may damage the paint at this step.

Depending on your comfort level, you can switch to the installation tool right away OR continue with mallet blows to expedite the process...we choose the latter.
NOTE:  If you elect to go with the tool straight off you will find leverage difficult, grip the crank arm and chain stay to assist.  You will NOT fully install one crank arm without the second at least started...this is normal.  Switching drive to non-drive will also ensure EQUAL insertion on both sides.
Laying the drive side FLAT on the phone book lay the non-drive crank on the spindle.
WARNING:  Ensure that the crank arms are LEVEL.  With 48 splines it is VERY EASY to have the arms all willy nilly...then you will need to REMOVE the arm and try again.  Also ensure that the cups and spacers remained intact BEFORE tapping on the second arm.  Last chance for review!

Time to use the installation tool. 
The installation tool has a 'stepped' adaptor to ensure that you do not over insert the arm (past the ridge for the crank bolt that is).
As suggested above, it is wise to use the installation tool and swap from one side to another to make certain the spindle is centered in the cranks (equally inserted in each arm).
Stay in school.  Math is your friend. 
A long 1" wrench will make life easier...but not easy.  This task is a BEAR the first time through, grit your teeth and just like NASCAR, giterdone.
NOTE:  You WILL get stuck.  The arms WILL stop before you are snugged up.  The Empire is not afraid.  We removed the tool, replaced the phone book and resumed some mallet attacks (equally on both sides) to free up the splines.

When you are done there should be no play in the spacers and the arms should move nicely in the circular rotation intended. 
If this is not the case you ARE NOT DONE or you have broken everything.

• Large cup and one 3mm spacer NON-Drive side.
• Small cup and one 3mm spacer Drive side.
• Lots of Ti-Prep clogging up the scenery.

Apply Ti-Prep to the threads of the crank bolts and snug them in the arms.

As for clearance. 
This craptastic image attempts to show something.
That is 8mm worth of clearance.  Whatever.
Wow this is exciting now, almost looks like a bike.  Or in this case Two Nummers.
Move along to STEP FOUR Wheels and Brakes now!

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STEP FOUR - Wheels and Brakes:

Wheels.  To avoid confusion, these are the wheels.
These are the wheels for the Nummers frameset.
Super smooth Profile Racing Hubs laced to WTB Laser Disc DH rims.  Sturdy AND sexy.

As STEP THREE was quite arduous we will pass over the minutia concerning RIM TAPE, TUBES and RUBBER installation. 
The fact is, if you have gotten this far you should be able to manage this too.

Whoa pussy cat, before installing them on the frame you need to verify a few things...

Inspect each wheel. 

Front Wheel:
Note the caps on either side of the hub, these are easily knocked loose and MUST be ON the hub when it is installed in the fork.
Rear Wheel:
Note the location of the spacer and flange of the cog (facing out).  It is a good idea to snug up the lockring at this time.

Now.
Install the rotor. 
The Magura Louise brakes chosen use a 160mm rotor...we like this size, ample stoppage and good clearance.
You will require a TORX wrench, one is NOT included.

Install your front wheel in the fork.
As you have no doubt noticed, the front axle is a 20mm.  Coincidentally and conveniently, so is the front fork.

For those of you new to the experience you must remove the axle from the fork to install the wheel.
Loosen the axle nut.  Do this NOW or the axle will spin madly because you already loosened the retaining bolts...and that won't do.
Loosen the two retaining bolts. 
Not OUT, loose.  Loose enough to slide the axle out (obviously you will need to FULLY remove the axle nut PRIOR to this).

Insert the wheel, slide in the axle, finger tighten the axle nut, tighten retaining bolts and tighten the axle bolt. 
Capiche?
NOTE:  This simple process will be require each and every time you wish to remover or install the front wheel.

Time to install the brakes.

The remaining bits for your Magura Louise brake are as follows:
Caliper bracket, bolts, brake lever and caliper.

Install the mounting bracket.
Letters OUT using the LONGER allen bolts with RED loctite.  Just tight enough to minimize 'slop' but loose enough you can move the bracket later (as required).

Install the caliper.
Direction is pretty obvious but if the hose is facing the bum of the frame you've failed.  Use the two allen bolts with integrated washers and BLUE Loctite.  Like the bracket, install it tight enought to remove 'slop' but loose enough for adjustment.

Install frame clips or zip ties (however YOU decide to fasten the hose to the frame).
Ties may NOT be included with the frame.  Sometimes we forget them, it happens.
When you are done the routing should be clean...
Nice job.

Install your lever on the bars...again tight enough it doesn't fall off, loose enough it can be adjusted.
This picture shows FULL LENGTH hose.  We will not reveal or double handed non-bleed technique for shortening Magura hydraulic brakes...they would terminate our relationship no doubt.
Adjust, shorten, stuff or otherwise ignore your hose as you see fit...this is as far as this step goes for now.

WE WILL TACKLE FINAL HYDRAULIC ADJUSTMENTS IN THE NEXT STEP - because the dropouts are horizontal we found it best to locate proper chain length and tension PRIOR to the final brake adjustment. 
You will too.

Next up, STEP FIVE Chain and Final Touches.

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STEP FIVE - Chain and Final Touches:

It is our opinion that the chain be installed and tensioned PRIOR to completing the brake installation.
Here is a chain:
It is a chain in a box.  In order to install the chain you will need to remove it from the box.  This chain is a KMC 710 Kool Chain.
Lay the chain on the cog and ring (ensure that the rear wheel is push to the FRONT of the dropouts). 
Wrap the chain around and ESTIMATE the length required.
It is CERTAIN that you will have to break the chain LONGER then would be ideal at the axles CURRENT location.
WARNING:  If you attempt to break the chain shorter...well...the axle WON'T slide any further forward and you will need to re-assemble the chain and start over.  Do not pass GO do not collect $200.
It is time to break the chain.
Use a tool, it's easier.
NOTE: You NEED to break the chain in ADVANCE of the closest OUTER plate.  The master link included with your chain will take its place.
Install the master link, the master link is much more reliable then re-assembling the chain and makes for easier chain adjustments in the future.
Clearly the chain is as short as possible BUT it isn't tensioned properly.
You will need to pull on the rear wheel until appropriate tension is achieved.
Profile Racing uses IMPERIAL fasteners for all their bits...bah...use a 3/4" wrench to tighten the wheel.
Maintain tension as the axle may try to slip forward as you tighten the drive side bolt.  Also ensure that the axle is straight when you are done. 
This can be done visually by looking at the clearance on either side of the tire by the chain stays.  Of course you could measure the clearance to be certain...loser.
Here is what it should look like (no you haven't installed pedals yet, then again, this isn't YOUR bike).

Time to finish up the brakes.
Slide the caliper bracket fore and aft (back and forth) until you (visually) notice maximum pad coverage on the rotor.
At this time start pumping the brake lever.  Five or six times should bring the pressure up.
On the last pump, HOLD the lever down.  Do not let go.  For anything.
With your other (free) hand and an allen key tighten the mounting bracket bolts.
Then (still holding the lever down) tighten the caliper bolts.
Release the lever, spin the rear wheel and listen.

If all is quiet - VICTORY!

If there is a ting or zing or other'ing. 
Loosen the caliper bolts, re-pump, re-hold and re-tighten until you get it right.

Simple!

Now it is time to install your grips, saddle and pedals.

Rather then bore the masses with these contact points...you will need to use your imagination.
Here is what yours MIGHT look like.
Wow.
We do good work.

Excuse us, time for STEP SIX Research and Destroy...the best step yet.

THE DESTROY PART IS FOR US ONLY. 
DO NOT DESTROY YOURS OR YOU WILL BE ALL ALONE, WE WILL ABANDON YOU LIKE YOU WERE OUR THREE LEGGED PUPPY.

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STEP SIX - Research and Destroy:

This is not done yet.  You will know after we know.

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